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G. S. HILL.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.28, 916.

Patented July 8, 1919.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 1 in CDLUMB G. S. HILL.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED Aue.2H, I9l6.

3 SHEETSSHEET 2.

m2: COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPII c0., WASHINGTON, D. c.

G. S. HILL.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.2B| 1916.

1 ,309,57 6. Patented July 8, 1919.

3 SHEETSSHEET 3- inn ens PATENT OFFICE.

GEORGE S. HILL, OF STRAFFORD, NEW HAMPSHIRE, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGN- MENTS, T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEXV JERSEY.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Application filed August 28, 1916.

To all whom it may con corn Be it known that I, Gnoncn S. HILL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Strafford, in the county of Stratford and State of New Hampshire, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The invention relates to machines for sewing over-seams.

The object of the invention is to provide novel and improved looper and loop spreader mechanism for cooperating with the vertically reciprocating needle or needles of the sewing mechanism, which will operate in a uniforl'nly reliable manner, and which is well adapted for high speed operation. To this end the invention comprises the features of construction and combinations of parts hereinafter described and referred to in the claims, the advantages of which will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the following detailed description of the mechanisms shown in the accon'ipanying drawings which embody the preferred form of the invention.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a sectional elevation showing so much of a buttonhole sewing machine as is necessary to illustrate the application of the present invention thereto; Fig. 2 is a partial transverse sectional elevation on line 2, Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a detail plan view of the turret which carries the under sewing mechanism; Fig. 4c is a. sectional elevation on line 4, Fig. 3; and Figs. 5 to 12 are diagrammatic views showing the mode of operation in forming the over-seam stitches.

In the drawings the invention is shown as embodied in a buttonhole making machine having the same general construction and mode of operation as the machine shown and described in application Serial No. 104,449, filed June 19, 1916. The machine comprises in general a cutter which operates to cut the buttonliole slit after the completion of the sewing, a reciprocating and latorally moving work clamp, and a sewing mechanism which is rotated during the sewing about the eye of the buttonhole, and which comprises a vertically reciprocating Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented July 8, 1919.

Serial No. 117,244.

and laterally vib-ating or jogging upper needle and cooperating looping and loop spreading devices arranged below the work and including a thread carrying looper.

In the machine shown the work clamps, indicated at 2, are mounted upon work supporting plates 1 which are pivoted on a longitudinally and laterally moving clamp carriage (3. The clamps are automatically closed at the beginning of the sewing, and are automatically opened after the completion of the buttonhole, by mechanism which forms no part of the present invention, and which need not be described. The buttonhole slit is out after the completion of the sewing by a cutter S operated by a cam on the main cam shaft of the machine. The work carried by the clamp over a throat plate 10 mounted upon the turret 1:2 which carries the under looping and loop spreadingmechanism.

In the OIDbOdlll'lGIlt of the invention shown the sewing mechanism is adapted to form the well-known Humphrey stitch, and comprises a vertically reciprocating and laterally jogging upper needle 14:, and two opposed looper points 16 and 18 arranged to reciprocate below the throat plate and to alternately enter loops thrown out by the needle during its successive reciprocations. The looper point 16 is provided with a thread guide and thread eye for an under thread which is carried by the looper through the loop of upper needle thread. This looper, after it passes through the loop of upper needle thread, is moved laterally across the needle path to present av loop of the under thread in position for the passage of the needle therethrough during its next reciprocation. To insure the proper spreading and positioning of the loop of under thread, a thread retaining finger 20 is provided which is arranged in position to engage one side of the loop of under thread as the looper moves transversely, and to spread and retain the loop in proper position for the passage of the upper needle theretln'ough. This thread finger is preferably arranged to project from the lower side of the throat plate across the path of the thread leading from the eye of the looper to the seam when the looper has passed through the needle loop and is about to move transversely. The looper point 18 is constructed to take a loop of needle thread and present it in position for the passage of the needle therethrough during its next reciprocation, and a spreader point 22 is mounted to move with and enter the needle loop with the looper point and then to move transversely to spread the loop for the passage of the needle therethrough.

In the preferred construction shown, the looper point 18 is secured in the arm of an oscillating support or carrier 24, and the transversely movable looper point 16 and spreader point 22 are secured in the arms of a carrier lever 26 which is mounted on the oscillating support 24 to move about an axls substantially at right angles to the aXis of the support. The support 24 is provided with two separated bearings 28 mounted to turn 011 the inner ends of studs 30 which are secured in lugs projecting from the upper edge of the turret 12. The support is oscillated through a link comprising a tubular part 32, tothe upper end of which is secured an arm 84 connected to the support. The lower end of the link is connected by a ball joint with the forward end of a lever 36, which is rocked to oscillate the support by a three-cornered eccentric 38 secured to the sewing shaft 40, and engaging a fork 42 on the upper end of a link 44, the lower end of which is connected to the rear end of the lever. The carrier lever 26 is mounted on a pivot 46 arranged on the support 24 between and at right angles to the pivot studs 30. The lever is provided with a horizontal arm 48 arranged substantially in the axis of the support 24, and having its outer end connected by a ball and socket joint to the upper end of an arm 50, the lower end of which is secured to the upper end of a tube 52 which extends down through the tube 32, and is connected at its lower end by a ball joint to the forward end of a lever 54. The lever 54 is rocked to oscillate the carrier 26 by an eccentric 56 on the needle shaft 58 which engages the upper end of a link60, the lower end of which is connected to the lever. Since the needle shaft 58 is geared to make two revolutions for each revolution of the sewing shaft 40, the carrier 26 will be oscillated during the movement of the sup port 20 in each direction to impart the proper transverse movements to the spreader points. I

The mode of operation of the sewing mechanism in forming the overseam stitches is illustrated in Figs. 5 to 12. During the depth stroke of the needle the support 24 is rocked toward the left to pass the end of the looper point 18 and the spreader point 22 through a needle loop. The forward movement of the looper and spreader points carries this loop to the left into the position indicated in Fig. 5, and as the loop is carried into this position the carrier lever 26 is rocked transversely of the direction of travel of the looper to spread the needle loop, as indicated in Fig. 6, so that during the slit or edge stroke of the needle it will pass down through the loop of upper thread. After the needle has entered this loop of upper thread, the sup-port 24 is rocked toward the right, and at the same time the carrier lever 26 is rocked on its pivot to return the spreader point to position over the looper point 18, and to bring the looper point 16 into position to pass through a needle loop. During the continued movement of the support toward the right the looper point 16 is passed through a needle loop, the position of the looper point as it enters the needle loop being indicated in Figs. 9 and 10. During the final movement of the looper point 16 toward the right, the thread leading from the eye of the looper to the seam is brought in front of the thread retaining finger 20, and the carrier lever 26 is rocked to move the looper point transversely across the needle path. During this transverse movement of the looper point the seam side of the loop of under thread is held or retained by the retainer finger so that the loop of looper thread is adequately spread and retained in position to insure the passage of the needle therethrough during its next depth stroke, as indicated in, Fig. 12. lVhen the looper point 16 is withdrawn from the needle loop, the loop readily disengages itself from the retaining fingeigso that it may be drawn into final position in the seam.

The mechanism for vibrating or jogging the needle 14 comprises a vertically reciproeating and laterally vibrating carrier sleeve 62 within which the needle bar 64 reciprocates. The carrier sleeve is reciprocated vertically through a bell crank lever 66, the horizontal arm of which is connected by a ball joint with the upper end of the sleeve, and the vertical arm of which is connected by a link 68 with an eccentric on the sewing shaft 40. The lower end of the sleeve is moved laterally by a link 70, one end of which is connected to the sleeve, and the other end of which is connected with a pivot 72 on a rotary head 74. When the sleeve is moved down-ward the link acts to swing the lower endof the sleeve and the needle bar toward the right, so that the needle bar will be positioned for the depth stitch. When the sleeve is raised, the link acts to swing the sleeve toward the left, so that the needle bar will be positioned to form the slit or edge stitch. The needle bar is reciprocated by a crank 76 on the needle shaft which is connected to the needle loar by a link 78. Since the needle shaft makes two revolutions for each revolution of the sewing shaft, the needle carrier will be moved to the right during one reciprocation ofthe needle, and to the left during the succeeding reciprocation, so that the needle will be vibrated or jogged to alternately form the depth and edge or slit stitches.

The rotary head 74 in which the carrier sleeve and needle bar are carried, and the rotary turret 12 in which the looper mechanism is carried, are rotated in unison during the sewing about the eye of a buttonhole through shafts and S2 geared to the head and turret, and operated by connected gear segment levers 84 and 86, one of which is provided with an arm, carrying a roll engaged by a cam on the cam shaft of the machine.

lVhile the invention has been shown and described as embodied in a machine for sewing a two-thread overseam, and in which the upper thread is carried by a transversely vibrating needle, and in which the sewing mechanism is mounted to rotate during the sewing, it will be understood that the invention is not confined in its application to such a machine, but may be embodied with advantage in other types of machines. It will also be understood that the invention is not limited to the specific construction and arrangement of parts shown and described, but may be embodied in other constructions, the specific construction and arrangement of parts being varied or modified as found desirable or best suited to the machine or mechanism in which the invention is to be embodied.

Having explained the nature and object of the invention, and specifically described one form of mechanism in which it may be embodied, what is claimed is 1. A sewing machine, having, in combination, an upper needle mechanism above the work, a reciprocating and transversely moving thread carrying looper below the work, a thread retainer coope'ating with the transverse movement to spread the loop of under thread, an opposed and alternately acting looper, and a spreader point moving with and transversely of the second looper.

2. A sewing machine, having, in combination, an upper needle mechanism above the work, a reciprocating support below the work, a thread carrying and an opposed nonthread carrying looper carried on the support, a loop spreader point cooperating with the non-thread carrying looper, a relatively fixed thread retainer cooperating with the thread carrying looper, and mechanism for moving the thread carrying looper and the spreader point transversely to spread the loops.

A sewing machine, having, in combination, a reciprocating and laterally jogging upper needle, two opposed looper points below the work, one of which carries a thread, mechanism for reciprocating the looper points, and for moving the thread carrying looper transversely across the needle path,

a thread retainer for engaging and spreading the loop of looper thread, and a loop spreader point moving with and transversely of the other looper point.

4. A sewing machine, having, in combination, an upper needle mechanism above the work, a reciprocating support below the work, a carrier mounted to move with and transversely of the support, a single looper on the support, a cooperating loop spreader and an opposed looper on the carrier, and a thread retainer cooperating with the looper on the carrier.

5, A sewing machine, having, in combination, an upper needle mechanism above the work, two opposed looper points, mechanism for reciprocating the looper points to alternately enter the needle loops, :1 loop spreader point arranged to enter a needle loop with one of the looper points, mechanism for moving the spreader point transversely to spread the loop taken by the corresponding looper point and for moving the other looper point transversely across the needle path when through a needle loop. and a thread retainer cooperating with the transversely moving looper.

6 A sewing machine, having, in combination, an upper needle mechanism above the work, a reciprocating support below the work, two loopers and a loop spreader coopc'ating with one of the loopers carried on the support, mechanism for transversely reciprocating one of the loopers and the loop spreader during each reciprocation of the support, and a thread retainer cooperating with the transversely reciprocating looper.

7. A sewing machine, having, in combination, an upper needle mechanism above the work, an oscillating support, a transversely movable carrier moving with the oscillating support, a single looper point on the oscillating support, a cooperating spreader point and an opposed looper point on the transversely moving carrier, and a thread retainer cooperating with the looper on the transversely movable support.

8. A sewing machine, having, in combination, an upper needle mechanism above the work, an oscillating support below the work, a carrier mounted on the support to oscillate about an axis sul'istantially at right angles to the axis of the support, a single looper point on the oscillating support, a cooperating loop spreader point and an opposed looper point on the carrier, mechanism :t'or oscillating the support and for oscillating the carrier on the support, and a thread retainer cooperating with the looper point on the carrier.

9. A sewing machine, having, in combination, an upper needle mechanism above the work, a reciprocating and transversely moving looper below the work, a stationary thread retaining finger arranged to engage one side of a thread loop carried by the looper and to retain and spread the loop during the transverse 'movement of the looper, and means for engaging and spreading a needle loop during the reverse stroke of the looper.

10. A sewing machine, having, in combination, an upper needle mechanism above the work, a thread carrying looper below the worr, mechanism for reciprocating the looper to carry its thread through the needle loop and for moving it transversely while through the needle loop, a stationary thread retaining finger arranged to spread the loop or" looper thread during the trans verse movement of the looper and to retain it in position'for the passage of the needle GEORGE S. HILL.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G. 

